Rifugio Città di Chivasso

7/20-7/21 - Città di Chivasso to Ceresole, 2500 to 2900 to 1000 meters
13.85 miles walked



Upon first appearances, Rifugio Città di Chivasso was a bit less spectacular than my first mountain refuge. The last bit to reach it was on a road, and I walked up the mountain to reach it drenched in a cold rain.



Before heading up, I ducked into a bar for a quick snack, where I found a huge group of mountain climbers from my "hometown" of Padova. After chatting with them a while, I received the first in a string of generosities: Sandro and Elena, who had no other choice but to sit with the awkward looking kid at the corner table, soon became engaged in conversation about their home, and ended up feeling it was only right to buy me my sandwich and beer. I insisted, but it was no use.



The walk was correspondingly more pleasant, now that I had had a good snack and a coincidentally exciting encounter. It was, in fact, just enough to keep my spirits high until I reached the refuge.





I could tell I was in a spirited place as soon as I saw the tattered "pace" (peace) flag flying in front, and then spied various solar panels all along the perimeter and roof of the refuge. Various signs reminding me of the importance of water, including one that said in various languages "water is life" were further clues.

Having figure out my sleeping situation, I soon became friends with 3 Finns, yka with the umlau over the a (this keyboard doesn't have it), Jussi, and Paola, as well as two Germans, Marco and Stefanie (the spelling of whose names I believe I have slaughtered, so sorry!). We chatted about a million things, and when dinner came, the 3 Finns and I ate together at a table.



The manager of the refuge, whose name is Alessandro, came to the table to tell us that, luckily, the weather would be beautiful tomorrow. Within minutes, he came back to welcome us each individually, and to tell us that our food was home-cooked, locally grown, and organic. It was clearly extremely important to him that we knew that, and it soon became apparent that he was telling the truth. The meal, which consisted of a wonderful vegetable soup, meat and polenta, and a delicious dessert of cooked fruit, was really spectacular, and we all agreed that it seemed as if it had been cooked by our mothers. We told this to Alessandro, who was visibly moved, and urged us out of our seats. He took us to the kitchen, made us knock on the kitchen door, brought out the 2 cooks (both rosy-cheeked, matronly ladies just about my mom's age), and had me repeat what I said to them. I figured this would be a bit awkward, since I was now speaking in front of about 20 people, both employees and guests, but it was actually pleasant, and I don't remember there being anything forced about it at all. One of the cooks was also visibly moved, while the other joked "see, boss, we're not so bad after all!"



The next day I had a pleasant breakfast 30 minutes after everyone else (just can't manage to wake up in time!), and was the last to leave the refuge. I saw Alessandro as I was about to go to the upper floor to pay, and here we had a 30 minute conversation about the importance of preserving the environment, about the establishment and its use of television as a way of trapping us into submission, about the Roman concept of bread and circuses and its modern manifestation, and so on. He and I saw eye to eye on a lot of issues, it was quite clear. We then talked a bit about my trip, and what I intended to do. As I went inside to pay, he asked me to wait 10 minutes for him, and in the meantime offered me a coffee on the house.



I waited outside, stretching a bit, and then he came out, and imparted a great deal of wisdom to me. This type of conversation is not meant to be recounted, and I do not intend to cheapen it by doing so here. Let it simply be said that he wanted me to make sure I remembered to notice details as well as the big picture, and to be wise enough to recognize when it was time to stop.
With that, he overflowed with generosity. He went into the kitchen and brought out 3 ripe plums for me, then after 2 more minutes, came out with a pear, an apple, and two chocolate bars. When I told him that I would walk in a certain direction to get water from a man-made fountain, he made me go in another "secret" direction, which was much more beautiful, and contained a natural water source where I could get water directly from the flowing stream.



What a generous individual. I don't think I have ever met an innkeeper (hostel, hotel, campground, inn, restaurant, etc.) who cared more for his guests. So, I take this opportunity to put on the internet the following: Rifugio Città di Chivasso is a place that traditionally and truly takes care of its guests. I could not recommend it more highly.

Here are some photos of the walk toward Ceresole, the lake in the latter 2 shots. Those shoes are dangling 2,900 meters in the air, and if this was a movie instead of a photo, you would see them quake in terror.