Christmas in Reggio Calabria

The possibility of spending Christmas alone was something I had considered, but never seriously thought would happen. In the end, I was right, and just to make me feel loved, I received five separate unsolicited invitations. Lucky for me, the first one to officially come in was the closest one geographically, and I was happy to take the six to seven hour trip across the island of Sicily, by sea over the strait of Messina, and down the coast to Reggio, to the waiting car of my good friend Enzo.

Within minutes of my arrival, I was already in full family mode, getting to know Enzo's sisters Giusi and Rita, and catching up with Enzo's mom. Everyone made me feel truly welcome, and I fit right in.

My reunion with all the guys went just as smoothly, and we partied in the streets until three or so on the night before the 24th. I remember being shocked at just how quickly I felt close to all these guys, as if I had known them for years, and this sensation only grew during the ten days I spent in RC.

Christmas eve started with a trip to Reggio Calabria's main corso, essentially a long promenade in the center of town, lined with shops and packed at any time of the day and night. Enzo and I exchanged auguri, or greetings, with anyone and everyone, and it really seemed that everyone knew each other in this city of +200,000. Dinner was spent with all the siblings at the house of Enzo's mother, who had prepared a delicious fish dinner per tradition, with some family variations. There were nine of us at the table, and in Enzo's Aunt's apartment next door there was another group of thirty or so cousins, great uncles, little nieces, and so on, ages 2 to 85. Every year after dinner, Santa Claus (Babbo Natale) makes an appearance in full dress, with a huge sack of presents for the whole family. The last three years had seen a Calabrian Santa Claus, played by Enzo, but as the kids were starting to catch on, the family decided that it was time for a different Santa Claus.

Once this was decided, it was no longer possible for me to meet the rest of the family, as the kids would see and realize the hoax. Therefore, most of dinner was spent distracting and blocking increasingly curious children from entering our dining room.

When dinner was over, and dessert had been served, devoured, and digested, it was time for me to get into my costume, put on the beard, and assume the character. My back stiffened, legs bent, pace slowed, face assumed a permanent smile. I was ready, almost: fumbling in Enzo's Mom's makeup bag, I found the eyeliner, and added the grey of age to my face by blotting and blurring around nose, under eyes, and on the sides of my mouth. I don't think anyone was prepared for such a serious approach to the Santa role, but for me this was more than just a three-minute-out-of-character-hand-out-presents kind of performance. I hope to play Santa many times in my life, experience the joy of seeing the eyes of little children light up in wonder and delight, bounce my sister's children on my lap, and this was my first go at it, so it had to be all-out. An audition for myself, if you will.

Nobody expected what was comin': the little ones were stupefied, having expected to see their cousin, and could not but believe that Santa had really made it this year. The parents had me speak some English to prove my non-local authenticity, we all belted out a round of Jingle Bells, and I proceeded to invite each and every family member, from the little ones to the oldest grandparents, onto my lap. They went wild: the little ones squealed with delight, the parents turned into children, and the grandparent's eyes twinkled as they slowly settled onto my lap, whispering a heart-felt thank you for putting on such a special performance to give the little ones a memorable Christmas.

When each of the 20+ presents had been delivered, group photos had been taken, and even Enzo received a gift, it was time to get back on the sleigh. My assistant the Befana, or the good witch who comes to clear out all the holiday celebrations on January 6th, played by Giusi, Enzo's sister, helped Old St. Nick out of the room, and off I went into the not-so-frosty Calabrian night.

I performed a quick change, cleaned off the makeup, and after some hiding, escaped with Enzo without a single child seeing me. What a joyful memory, how fulfilling to get to be the giver of all those presents! The first run at playing Santa Claus was, all in all, a galloping success, and there were already calls for a return in 2009. I think I found my calling!

Enzo and I went back to the main drag of town, where everyone had gathered to see one another and exchange season's greetings. Lots of joyous hugs and kisses were bestowed, I was graciously included in the revelry, and stories of my Santa exploits were recounted. People described in great detail the sumptuous meals and compared family traditions and recipes, lots of jokes and general merriment filled the air, and so we passed a good bit of time, until everyone headed to bars. Yes, bars, and I was a bit scandalized as well, that is, until everyone reminded me that Christmas Eve isn't the holiday, just Christmas Day.