Onions and a Mirage-like vision of Sicily

12/3 – Tropea to Nicotera – 18.83 miles

Before heading out, I wished to give Tropea a better look, as I had not even climbed the stairs to the historic center before. I did a lightning tour, decided it would be a much nicer palce in summer, and took my leave of it.

As I passed the farms surrounding the city, I was soon immersd in the sights and smells of Tropea’s famous onions. After bathing in that sharp but slightly sweet smell for a few miles, I finally gave in to temptation and ripped of a small piece of onion leaf, and enjoyed munching on it. Even now, that smell remains imprinted in my memory.

And that’s about all I have to recount from this day. I think I caught my first view of Sicily, and was duly excited, but the day was cloudy and hazy, so it could have just been a part of Calabria.

Reaching Nicotera, I shuffled around for a good hour asking around about lodging, and finally found a B&B that fit my budget. After standing around awkwardly in the owner’s eyeglass shop for ten minutes, watching Italians stare at me with the latest models of designer eyeware at unbeatable prices, his buddy finally drove me to the B&B. Even though it was a short walk away, I appreciated the gesture, as well as his friendliness. For example, when I asked about a good, affordable family-run place, he drove me there, accompanied me to the owner, introduced us so as to show the owner that I was okay, and dropped me off again at the B&B. I mention this because it is a unique and beautiful aspect of the culture in Southern Italy, especially in Calabria and Sicily. “Bearing someone’s name” (Portare il nome) or being recommended (raccommandazione) are important traditions that secure you friendly and sometimes generous service, but also require you to be on your best behavior.

So, thanking him for the introduction, I went for my room, ate well that night at the Trattoria where I had been sent, and that wraps up the day.