Back to the Present - an impromptu post on the morn of my third month

Friends,

It is 11:30 in the morning on the 10th, and it is high time I get to walking to my next destination, which, I feel very tickled to say, is currently to be determined. Anyways, I passed out yesterday around 9:45, earlier than I had intended, exhausted from a truly difficult but extremely rewarding stretch of trail, which I will describe in due time. As a result of my premature trip to the land of Nod, I was not able to go to an internet cafe here in San Gimignano until this morning, and was therefore not able to share more of my trip with you.

So, as a result, I sacrificed the relatively cool weather of the morning to come type out some blog posts for you, but after this it is definitely time to go.

The reason for this intermediate post is that I am well aware that my last point ended on a somewhat negative nellie note. Please trust me when I say that the next day's walk was much better, and that the days since have been some of my best so far. I cannot wait to write about them and share them with you!

Just to end on a high note, here's a little tale of something that happened to me yesterday. This was one episode of many that happened over the course of one day, and I normally wouldn't go into such detail, but this blog is in need of a little pick-me-up, so here goes. I wandered into a gigantic private vineyard/estate, which I had been told to cross through and then ask directions on where to go from there. I passed through row after of row of vines, as well as a few olive groves, and finally reached an old rundown barn, with a napping man outside. He pointed me further on to another house, about a kilometer down the road (and still on this immense property). Two men answered my calls from the house, which was even more abandoned, and told me to go back where I came from, as that was the way to San Gimignano.

Frustrated, I walked back to the original napper, who was now playing cards with his buddy. I told them what happened, they threw down their cards, and got up to accompany me. Now, I didn't catch their names, but I learned that they were here working on the harvest. One was from Morocco, the other from Tunisia, and they were celebrating Ramadan. They thought I was Italian for most of the walk, and I was willing to let them think so: after all, Americans aren't exactly the favorites among North African Muslims these days. However, it finally came to light that I was not Italian, and I was ready for anything when I finally told them I was half-American. Now, I must be honest here that I said "half-Brasilian" first, hoping to cushion the blows which I imagined were imminent. So what did they do when they heard I was American?

Nothing. They asked me about America, asked if it was possible to get work there, told me they didn't like Bush but liked Obama, and then we changed the subject altogether, to the subject of wild boars and the havoc they wreak, if I remember correctly. We walked a good 30 minutes together, and they led me into a forest. Now, I have to admit that the thought crossed my mind that I was miles away from any town in the middle of a dense forest with these two guys, and that there was no way I could have run away, but they were exceedingly friendly, and after all, had already walked a mile and a half with me, so I pushed any bad thoughts out and kept walking.

And that was it. They pointed me in the direction where I needed to go after pretty much walking me all the way there. After they left me, I smiled at the way that whole episode had played out, and marveled at my luck for these two guides, without whom I would never ever have found the correct path. Now you can tell me that it was not wise to do what I did, but please let me gently reply that I could never have had any idea how that situation would have played out, and that choosing to turn back would have delayed my arrival to San Gimignano by about 90 minutes, meaning that I would have arrived at 9:30, well after dark. There was no alternative, and I think that my actions in this little story are very characteristic of the attitude I have adopted for these past two months. Never say no to an experience, always smile and act with respect and kindness toward everyone you meet, and look for the best in everyone.

Anyways, here is the forest that I crossed through, which saved me a large expense of time and effort, as I would have had to go around this forest on a busy street had it not been for these two guides. If you open the picture, look behind that branch that protrudes on the right side of the picture, and you will see some of the vines. If you keep looking left, you will see the second abandoned house, and to the left of that, an olive grove. If you look down from the vines, you will see some ruins from the 12th century. This is Castelvecchio San Gimignano.

I wish all of you a pleasant day, and hope to write again in a few days, when I reach Siena, by way of Chianti (yes, out of the way, I know, but would you skip it?).

Wishing myself a happy two-month anniversary, and a happy +500 miles to (hiking) boot,
Pat