Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Massa-Carrara, and a day off for an injured foot

9/1, 9/2 - Sarzana to Massa, via Carrara -
17.72 miles walked

I woke up ready to explode off the starting point, which happened to be a little patch of gravel. Happy to get an early start, I made my way toward the center of Sarzana. What a beautiful town! This little burg, which I had never even heard of, was not only very charming, but also seemed to have been very prosperous over the centuries. I walked through it in the same way I always do, passing through one interesting-looking street and then moving on. This time, though, I felt a pinch of regret that I could not linger longer, perhaps learn some interesting facts and see some art, and only then move on.

However, this is not that kind of trip. I could walk fourteen feet and see something that could blow my mind every day, but once I start thinking like that, it's akin to the regret one feels for not having read every book in the public library. Sure, you are missing some absolute gems, but there is only so much time in one lifetime, and you can only check out so many books at once, right?

So, marking it down on my long list of places to visit by car when I make my triumphant return, I kept moving.

Then I entered Tuscany, and soon ran into a large supermarket, where I purchased Italian toiletries. I said a meaningful and nostalgic goodbye to Alpine Force, which, after all, had been along for the ride on so many of my scent memories, and replaced it with the emasculating "delicato" deodorant. So much for that "deodorant as an extension of my current heroic condition" thing...

But wait!!! How could you have treated your grand entrance into Tuscany in such a cursory fashion? For shame! Before you start throwing the rotten produce, let me explain; my physical entry into Tuscany, the land of rolling hills, vineyards, and the heart of the Renaissance, was even less magnificent. In fact, there was no sign at all, despite my being back on the Via Aurelia, one of the main roads to Rome. Did I miss it, you say? I highly doubt it: I'm not quite speeding by, after all. So, that was my anti-climactic arrival in Tuscany, and that is what I pass on to you. Isn't that what this blog is about: vicariously experiencing Italy through Pat's eyes?

Well, whatever it is, there is no way you would vicariously want to experience the pain that shot into my right foot just about when I arrived at the supermarket. I don't know what I did, but it was bad, and the result was shooting pain all the way up my leg with every step. Still, I'm a warrior, and with the aid of what had been the final application of Alpine Force (had I been wearing "Delicato," my goose would surely have been cooked), I climbed the hill to Carrara, city of marble.
The entire area was dominated by marble. Many of the buildings had elements of marble incorporated into the structure, steps and walls and floor tiles were in various qualities of marble, and looming above the whole region, the mountains looked as if they were covered in glaciers, white from the abundance of marble they still contain after hundreds of years of mining.

I still was not sure about my lodging when I arrived at the tourist information booth, but decided that, despite the pain I was feeling, I would make it to Massa, another four or five miles down the road. First, though, I had a great info session with the girl in the booth, who had traveled extensively in the South of Tuscany and gave me some great leads for future travel destinations. She then found an affordable, homey hotel for me in Massa, and sent me on my way.

The hotel was perfect for me; very cozy, old-fashioned but well-kept, and best of all, family-run. I had an excellent dinner of home-stuffed pasta, wild boar in a tomato and olive sauce, and wine from the vines out back. Heading back to my room, I heard a hilarious discussion from my window, below which all the old neighborhood fogies had assembled. When that died down, I turned on the ol' boob tube, a very great rarity, and watched the end of Pretty Woman. Seeing that as the perfect end to a tough day, I hit the sack, hoping that my foot would feel better in the morning.

It didn't. My right foot is a fairly pivotal team player in this game I have been playing, so I decided it was best to give it a rest for one day, and get some errands done in the meantime.
Now, you may remember my six-hour internet day from a few posts ago. That was this day, and since I already went into my day's activities then, I will only treat them briefly here. Pharmacy, haircut, straight-razor clean up (my first, one of life's more satisfying experiences), T-shirt purchase, failed cellular phone plan change, and some face time with the computer screen.

After that, it was back to the hotel for another wonderful homemade dinner, and with strong hopes and an application of the magical pain relieving pomade, I went to bed early.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Patrick: Was Barney the ONLY dog in Italy to accompany you on your walks?
The Carrara 'Mountains of Marble' are much large than I had imagined.
Hope your foot better.
Cheryl