I was very worried that I had not kept my side of the deal with Raffaele's father-in-law, waking up instead at 9 AM to wait for Raffaele to drive me back to the farm near Paestum.
However, Raffaele reassured me that he had spoken with his father-in-law, and that I was not committing a grave error of disrespect. Relieved, I had a leisurely morning coffee with Raffaele and his brother Antonio, who switched off work days with Raffaele. After talking traveling for quite a while with the well-traveled Antonio, we all went to their Uncle's farm, another large production house of mozzarella di bufala. There, I got to see and learn the whole process, and tasted mozzarella that had been made just seconds before. It is impossible to eat mozzarella any fresher than that, my friends. After petting a water buffalo or two and eating some homemade dairy-based cream pie with another coffee, Raffaele and Antonio showed me their beach club, and took me back to the farm where I had last stopped. 
There we shared the hopes that this friendship would grow with time, they offered me their hospitality should I return, and I realized that Paestum had now become a permanent fixture on my vacation cycle. Amazing how a decision made at random can lead to such a serendipitous encounter, and a friendship that will hopefully last for generations. Did I ever mention how fortunate I am?It gets better, believe it or not. My next destination was Santa Maria di Castellabate, where Raffaele's good friend Franco had offered, sight unseen, to be my host that very evening. So, leaving Paestum, I came to the town of Agropoli, and after climbing to the top for some views and a peek at the castle, I entered the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano.
Luckily for me, I stumbled into a mountain biker bar, and soon had precise instructions for how to reach S. Maria by walking path, through some of the most beautiful coastline in the country. So, turning right at the broken gate by the abandoned tennis court, I soon found myself in virgin brush land overlooking a multicolor sea.This was an interesting walk. I found and fully explored a large abandoned mansion, went the wrong way on a beach, tried to make my own path up a creek bed and muddied myself thoroughly, backtracked through some really heavy thorned brush, and descended on the neighborhood before S. Maria just before dark.
Franco found me on the path to his house, and immediately gave me the full tour of the area, taking me to the best views and the calm harbor, telling stories and relaying the history of the region. When he was done, we met up with his buddy Pasquale for an aperitivo, and then with his other buddy Marcello and his fiance Mariassunta. Together, the five of us headed to a wine bar back in Agropoli, where we had a delicious dinner with some stellar wine.Now, I had forgotten to mention a few crucial details that make this situation all the more interesting. Franco is the owner and operator of a world-class 30-seat restaurant, Taverna del Pescatore, that serves only fish. He is widely respected in the area, and is extremely knowledgeable and keenly perceptive about food and presentation, not to mention the fact that he is a sommelier. I mention this because the restaurant/wine bar we attended was keenly focused on providing Franco and his guests with a top-notch quality experience. So, all the stops were pulled, the best cheeses served with excellent wine pairings, and the extra food brought to the table at no extra charge. To top it all off, I had cordially wished one of the owners, a runner, a good day while on my walk earlier that day, and so won his immediate approval and good graces. So, even though my meal was offered by Franco, Pasquale, and Marcello, the restaurant offered it as well.
What a day! We went back to Franco's, stayed up till 3 talking philosophy and drinking grappa, and I hit the sack hard.
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