I had made some really good friends these past few days, and I was tempted to stay when Franco told me I was welcome. However, the wanderer in me won out, and it was time to press my luck and see how things came out for me. Franco dropped me off where he had picked me up, and I was on my way. In any event, as with Paestum, I see myself coming back here again. Actually, I know I will be back, on April 4th, as I have been invited to Marcello and Mariassunta's wedding, the reception of which will be held at Tenuta Capodifiume. This honor goes a long way in demonstrating the warmth of these people, and once again, my good fortune. 
To think that it all started with a hankering for some fresh cheese... The walk was full of beautiful scenery, and even a nice hike up and down a mountain. Actually, the muddy conditions, combined with the lack of path maintenance and a recent fire, made this another wilderness adventure, and I found myself following the beaten paths made by animals. Even though it got messy, and I almost fell multiple times, and I was clearly in someone else's olive grove, it was still exhilarating to make my own path, and force my way down a hill. It makes me think of pioneers and explorers, picking their way through vast mountain ranges, encountering dead ends, big ravines, and patches of dense thorn bushes: any job openings in that booming sector?
I used some fig tree leaves to wipe the mud off my shoes, emitted some manly grunts of satisfaction as I looked at one more mountain conquered, and continued down the coast. The stop for the day was Acciaroli, which the sign told me was once the home of Ernest Hemingway. Since I arrived early, around 3, I ate my lunch on an absolutely gorgeous, pristine beach, and then began to look for lodging.Things did not look good for me. I wandered around the town, asked at the bar, asked the old men, went to the nuns, and came out 0 for 5. The only place open was a three-star hotel right on the beach, which wanted to rob me with the outrageous price of 65€. 
Defeated, I almost accepted, but out of principle I decided to make one last sweep, knowing that at least I would not be homeless. My first stop was in the big fancy restaurant occupying the prime real estate on the boardwalk, Ristorante Mediterraneo. I asked the pizza chef, who was standing outside, what I should do, and he agreed with me that the hotel was charging an unfair price. We started going over the options, I mentioned I had a sleeping bag, and he pointed to a wooden construction open to the elements on the beach. I considered it, was assured of the safety of such a decision, and just then the restaurant owner emerged. Gino was a big guy, and was simply overflowing with generosity. He asked to hear my story, and was thrilled to hear that I was an American. The reason, he said, was that he used to be a professional boxer, and had fought many times in the US. He told me dinner was on him, and five minutes later, said I could sleep on the floor of the restaurant, as they did not have any rooms.
Defeated, I almost accepted, but out of principle I decided to make one last sweep, knowing that at least I would not be homeless. My first stop was in the big fancy restaurant occupying the prime real estate on the boardwalk, Ristorante Mediterraneo. I asked the pizza chef, who was standing outside, what I should do, and he agreed with me that the hotel was charging an unfair price. We started going over the options, I mentioned I had a sleeping bag, and he pointed to a wooden construction open to the elements on the beach. I considered it, was assured of the safety of such a decision, and just then the restaurant owner emerged. Gino was a big guy, and was simply overflowing with generosity. He asked to hear my story, and was thrilled to hear that I was an American. The reason, he said, was that he used to be a professional boxer, and had fought many times in the US. He told me dinner was on him, and five minutes later, said I could sleep on the floor of the restaurant, as they did not have any rooms.
I am still in awe of these people, especially in the Cilento, and their ability to be so open and giving. My dinner was a seafood feast, with an appetizer large enough to feed a family of four, a pasta dish that did not skimp on the scampi, an artichoke-prosciutto-olive pizza made just for me by the pizza chef, and I had to turn down the secondo, a first for me on this trip. Gino loved to see me enjoying this bounteous feast, and came over often to tell me boxing stories (fought 126 times, lost only 11). I also met his family, and befriended his 16-year old son Giovanni, who brought the Playstation III from home and showed me the latest video games.
Saying goodnight to everyone as they left, I saw Gino off, and assured him that he could trust me all alone in his 600-seat restaurant. It had not even crossed his mind. Would you have trusted me? I thanked my lucky stars as I made my bed, brushed my teeth in the men's room, and joyously added another entry on my list of different types of lodging: dining room of a seafood restaurant, with sea views.
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2 comments:
You're straining credibility with these last few entries, my man. It appears you were just on fire in November.
Mike, I have not met you, but from your comment I deduce it is true...great minds do think alike!
CD
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