I awoke to a warm, sunny beach day, perfect for the five miles that hugged the coast all the way to the foot of Monte Circeo, which thrust out abruptly from the water. I entered the shaded path, turned onto the mountain trail, and began the steepest uphill climb that I have so far encountered, beating even those I found in the Alps. 
Within a few minutes I was completely winded and dripping with sweat, having been rudely reminded that mountain conditioning is very different from walking conditioning. This was no joke; at one point, I even abandoned the use of my trekking poles, having to revert to the use of both hands to pull myself up. Finally, after reaching several false peaks, I found myself 1750 feet above sea level, staring almost straight down at the waves, and at the nearly infinite stretch of beach I had just traversed. This was the highest up I had been for some time, and I lingered at the top for nearly an hour, surveying the surrounding countryside in detail. The only spoiler for me was that after being completely alone for the whole climb, I found two hikers occupying the best viewpoint on the peak. 
How dare they set foot on my mountain!? We barely greeted each other, indeed we gave each other the absolute minimum regard that the norms of civilized society will allow, and I reflected that they must be feeling the same exact way about me that I was about them, and even worse still, since they were there first. Grumbling to myself, I nonetheless sat off a bit hidden, letting them feel alone until they were ready to leave. After all, there was enough peak for everyone.
Within a few minutes I was completely winded and dripping with sweat, having been rudely reminded that mountain conditioning is very different from walking conditioning. This was no joke; at one point, I even abandoned the use of my trekking poles, having to revert to the use of both hands to pull myself up. Finally, after reaching several false peaks, I found myself 1750 feet above sea level, staring almost straight down at the waves, and at the nearly infinite stretch of beach I had just traversed. This was the highest up I had been for some time, and I lingered at the top for nearly an hour, surveying the surrounding countryside in detail. The only spoiler for me was that after being completely alone for the whole climb, I found two hikers occupying the best viewpoint on the peak. 
How dare they set foot on my mountain!? We barely greeted each other, indeed we gave each other the absolute minimum regard that the norms of civilized society will allow, and I reflected that they must be feeling the same exact way about me that I was about them, and even worse still, since they were there first. Grumbling to myself, I nonetheless sat off a bit hidden, letting them feel alone until they were ready to leave. After all, there was enough peak for everyone.Once they left, I stayed quite a bit longer, explored the pagan ruins of the temple dedicated to Circe, a minor goddess in the Odyssey (which, by coincidence, 
I was currently reading), and started the descent. It was pretty cool to have seen in advance the series of ridges that would form my descent path, not to mention that it was also great to walk up one side and down another. Still cannot get enough of that feeling, much akin to the one I described in the first day or two of my travels.
I was currently reading), and started the descent. It was pretty cool to have seen in advance the series of ridges that would form my descent path, not to mention that it was also great to walk up one side and down another. Still cannot get enough of that feeling, much akin to the one I described in the first day or two of my travels.San Felice Circeo was a sleepy little town - actually, one that had died in its sleep, so empty were its streets and piazzas. I found a hotel, was again the only guest, and wandered almost two miles to find a suitable place to eat.
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